The shambling TV detective Colombo had a distinctive method for solving crimes. After going through the normal investigative motions he would adopt a quizzical pose, remove the cigar usually clamped between his teeth, tilt his head to one side and ask 'just one more question' of a key witness or suspect. This question was, of course, framed so skilfully it produced some sort of revelatory flourish and the case would be solved.
For some time I've been intrigued by the naming of Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir as the six 'noble' grape varieties. The origins of this naming are unclear but it has provided marketeers with the opportunity to promote these varieties as something of a cut above the rest. One thing these noble varieties have in common is their evident ability to flourish and produce wines of typicity in any number of locations globally. Who could object to the idea that a Merlot from Chile is just as Merlot-ish as one from Chateau Petrus? Is it the same as saying, for example, that a VW car is a still a VW whether produced in the Czech Republic or Brazil?
Perhaps the answer lies in the onward march of globalisation - there's no reason why wine varieties should be exempt from the pressures felt by every other international commodity. The six 'nobles' are the global hegemons - sweeping much else behind them in the quest for pre-eminence.
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| This is a noble |
I'm just removing my cigar for a moment before I frown and tilt my head to one side and ask 'just one more question'. If some are 'noble' that means that some are 'ignoble', right?
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| This isn't |
If you're interested in exploring the ignoble grape varieties of Languedoc Roussillon please join one of my tours. Contact me at audeman56@gmail.com or audemanwine.com for details.
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| This is a noble |
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| This isn't |
