Lip-stinging, thirst-quenching...Picpoul de Pinet

Picpoul de Pinet is not rare, or even lesser-known any more, but it's a fantastic example of what a little official recognition can do to the profile of a grape, wine or region.

Recognised as a separate appellation within the Languedoc barely a decade ago, it's already established as a firm favourite amongst those who like a fresh, oak-free white wine experience. The area covered by the Picpoul appellation is between Pezenas (famous for its spiced mutton pies and Moliere's theatre group) and the coastal town of Meze. The area close to the coast is flat, but as you approach from the north you pass through some geologically ancient gently rolling hills which are rich in fossil deposits. It's possible this complex geology accounts for the extraordinary variations identified in the aroma and flavours of the wines, which are all from just one grape variety.

The first I remember tasting was bought from a supermarket near Valras Plage about fifteen years ago and it had a lemon-lime zest flavour. Last year I tasted one which had definite honey notes.
Last week I enjoyed a white peach-redolent example. The official website of the appellation is not bashful about either the range of flavours you can expect, or the possible food pairings. You are told that it can be enjoyed with a range of seafood or indeed with cheese or chocolate. You'd be forgiven for thinking this is just bold marketing puff for a wine striving to achieve the broadest possible appeal. But if you get green apple, pepper, hawthorn blossom, acacia and white pear on your palate then I suppose it's not stretching credulity too far to imagine it as a wine for all courses!

You can still find decent Picpoul for about 3 euros a bottle and it's hard to pay more than 12. There are a few big producers like Domaine Felines Jourdan (popular in the UK) and the Cave de l'Ormarine in Pinet (judging by the shop popular everywhere) but my current favourite is Domaine Reine Juliette (which until last year was labelled as Domaine Montredon - a well-known supplier to local restaurants)